Halloween 2023

Lesley and I came up with the silly idea of being paparazzi (Marfarazzi) for Halloween last year and Lesley ran with it. We dressed like photographers (not much of a stretch), recruited Lesley’s husband, Junie, to be a videographer and our friend Augie to be security. Lesley made us all press badges and then ran up to our friends and strangers in costumes and snapped away. Thankfully, everyone was a good sport.

The end of an era: Goodbye Frama

One of the first questions I asked before I moved to Marfa almost 10 years ago was “Is there a coffeeshop?” Anne, from Marfa Public Radio, told me about the coffeeshop attached to a laundromat named Frama and took me there on my first day of my internship.
Today is the last day for Frama. It’s a bittersweet end of an era as Frama was my go-to coffeeshop here. I wrote many stories there, used that place to meet with sources for interviews, and even worked there during a much needed journalism break.
I loved that it was a place where I’d run into locals and former residents who’d stop there while they were in town. It’s where I heard the latest news. My Sunday morning routine during my internship was to grab coffee while I did laundry. Its job was merely to serve the community and it did for almost 15 years. I will miss it.

More food options popping up in Marfa

Nicholas Francis never really wanted to have his own restaurant, but with the limited food options in Marfa, he was tired of eating the same thing. He and his wife, Annisa Lujan, started offering the occasional fried chicken sandwich at Planet Marfa last summer before they opened Foxy's Kitchen in December, when the outdoor bar is typically closed for the winter season. With that, they expanded their menu to include items Francis likes to make such as poutine and chilaquiles.

“It’s usually also what we’re craving,” said Lujan.

Foxy’s Kitchen is one of the pop-up restaurants that have opened locally in recent months. In the past, there’d be an occasional pop-up offering something new or different to eat, but these days, there can be two or three happening in a week serving up a variety of food including pizza, burgers and beef noodles. These temporary restaurants typically operate from another restaurant, business or someone’s home.

Annisa Lujan and Nicholas Francis

Hot Beef

Chris King had the idea for Hot Beef before he moved to Marfa, only wanting to serve old style Texas chili. He spent time working on a recipe with the idea that he would serve it late night. It didn’t seem feasible to him in Austin, but he revived the idea and thought maybe he could pursue it in Marfa.

“There is a void to be filled in that late evening of maybe getting out of the bar and wanting to grab some food,” said King.

Museum of Electronic Wonders & Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour used to fill that void until it closed in 2016, but Casita/Snack/Christmas/Space Bar offers late-night snacks such as hot dogs and tater tots when they’re open during the weekends. Though not as late, Line Thai delivers several of their dishes after 8:45 pm throughout the week in Marfa (they also have a restaurant in Alpine).

King had his first pop-up serving chili at Alta Marfa Winery last year. It went great for him, but he realized it wasn’t an easy thing. The name, Hot Beef, which is lifted from Terry Allen’s song “The Night Cafe,” allows him to offer other beef entrees, but there are typically two items on his menu: a beef option and a vegetarian option. He recently served tacos at Alta Marfa and beef noodles at Industry Night at El Cosmico, which are held on Mondays when most of the service industry has a night off.

“I think what's important is to make things for this town, and whatever town you live in,” said King. “Then make it for the people that live here. Make them feel welcome. Make them feel like they're a part of it.”

Michael Serva

Bordo

Pop-ups were great for Michael Serva and Hannah Bailey as they provided some income while the couple worked on their brick and mortar called Bordo. It also reintroduced them to the community after returning from Houston. With hopes to open soon, Bordo will be an Italian deli that offers sandwiches, gelato and pasta, inspired by Serva’s great-grandfather’s butcher shop in California.

“I kind of wanted to mimic that and provide a service,” said Serva. “So we're trying to make sure the pricing is affordable.”

Serva and Bailey served their food through pop-ups at Do Your Thing Coffee and recently partnered with Convenience West BBQ to serve gumbo. These proved to be learning opportunities as some of these events were successful and some were a bust. Serva said the consistency of big kitchens and fine dining is great, but that doesn’t happen with pop-ups.

“You have to build it from scratch every time,” said Serva. “It's exhausting. The only reason you would do it is because you really have that passion behind it.”

Serva and Bailey have been looking for space to open their own restaurant for years, but Marfa’s real estate market is tough with the limited properties and lack of affordability. The former Siempre Marfa restaurant is currently on the market for over $1 million. But Serva and Bailey eventually found a landlord who allowed them to renovate a former AirBnb into a commercial kitchen. 

“I’ll battle the food desert battle in my own weird way,” Serva said after he gave me a tour of Bordo. Serva and Bailey also want to offer the space for other aspiring cooks.

“We're actually hoping that since we're going to be doing lunch here, we want to make the space available to other people to use as a pop-up space at night. I think that just goes a long way,” said Serva.

“And bringing our friends in, who we've worked with in other places too,” said Bailey. “They're wanting to come in and do a night. Anybody’s welcome.”

Little Juice

Sara Goodleaf

Sara Goodleaf thought about renting a kitchen for her cold-pressed juice business, Little Juice.

Because juice is a raw product, people are technically not allowed to make and sell juice from a home. However, her house is considered a commercial property, so she worked with the City of Marfa to create a little commercial kitchen that meets health standards.

“I just feel like there's only so many rental options for that here, and I don't want to take up one if I don't need it,” said Goodleaf.

Goodleaf has been creating juices for herself that her friends started to take notice and request juice of their own. It reached the point where she was spending so much time doing this that she decided to start Little Juice, offering a variety of green, citrus and fruit juices.

“I also realized there wasn't anyone doing it here,” said Goodleaf. “There was a gap in sort of healthy food options, and my hope is that people take advantage of that.”

Pop-ups are good for her because she can sell her juice directly to customers. She’s not allowed to sell it wholesale unless she has a branded fridge inside a store, so for now, her juice will be available through online ordering and pop-ups. She’s learned through her job at Marfa Wine Co that personal connections are important in retail.

“I'm definitely hoping pop-ups help get the word out, because I have my community of people that I know,” said Goodleaf. “But being able to do things at different locations, you're able to broaden the audience which I think is really important.”

Big Buddha Bakery

Before Diana Wassef and Patrick Manian opened Big Buddha Bakery in the border town of Presidio, they would serve their baked goods at the local farmer’s market and deliver to the surrounding towns. After their place opened in December 2021, they realized people were driving to eat at their spot, so they hosted pop-ups in Terlingua, Marathon, Alpine and Sanderson. They hosted their first Marfa pop-up serving pizzas at Aster and quickly sold out, so they hosted more before finding a more consistent spot with Glitch Marfa, an “analog gallery for internet objects.”

Patrick Manian and Diana Wassef

Wassef and Manian were asked to serve pizza at Glitch Marfa’s community night last fall which was great for Manian as their commercial kitchen includes a wood fire oven. They stayed in touch after that event, and Big Buddha now offers pizzas and other baked goods that can be picked up from Glitch Marfa on Saturdays. While tourism is a big industry in Marfa, it can be inconsistent. Some months are bustling while others are quiet, which can make it hard to determine how much food to prepare.

“That's why we've done a pre-order system lately. So that people have to pick their pickup time. We can limit how many people can come at each 15 minute interval or whatever it is,” said Manain. “That's really been helpful in shaping the day.”

Romi Gold

Combining her art background with her love for cooking, Romina “Romi” Urueña first hosted pop-ups in New York through a dining project called Artemis. 

“I love how intimate it was and how you could be creative and have no limits and have no one telling you what to do or what to cook,” said Urueña. “It was so open.”

Then the pandemic happened. It was already becoming difficult for her to host these dinners with rising food costs, but it was also hard to find a space. So she closed Artemis.

“I think everything has a time too,” said Urueña. “It was time to end it and begin something new.”

Romi Gold

She hosted smaller pop-ups at bars in Brooklyn and Queens before she returned to Marfa a year ago. Last summer, she offered tacos and tamales at Planet Marfa. It was originally a temporary fun thing for her to do, but it extended it until it became unsustainable due to food costs. She’s also served food at the local farmer’s market, but she most recently hosted a Valentine’s Day dinner at Chateau Wright in Fort Davis which opened the idea to potential future collaborations.

“It would give me the opportunity to do my thing that I did with Artemis, but on a smaller level,” said Urueña. “I'm excited to see where it goes.”

She added that she wishes more people would work more together than apart. “As a cooking community, we should be able to share our gifts or talents, whatever you want to bring to the table, versus so much competition,” said Urueña. “How do we work together to make this a really great destination for food but also be inclusive of the community?”

Hannah Delagi

Hannah Delagi

“You have to integrate yourself into the community, I think, to get a feel of what people even want and what matches up with your interests and curiosities,” said Hannah Delagi.

Delagi recently left Aster and now works out of Glitch Marfa’s kitchen to bake for Big Sandy Coffee. Glitch Marfa wants to offer their commercial kitchen as an accessible space for the community and a space to rent for pop-ups.

Delagi has hosted a few pop-ups of her own. She has served juice from the courtyard in Mira Marfa’s new location and frito pie at El Cosmico. She worked with other locals to host ​​Moroccan Mondays at Planet Marfa. She likes the flexibility of pop-ups.

“You do it as frequently as you want, and Marfa is the perfect town for it because it's such a small population,” said Delagi. “News travels fast, and then all of a sudden half the town is at your pop-up because they want to eat something that they haven't had access to in the last six months.”

Easy Wind Catering Co.

Dylan McShan of Easy Wind said that pop-ups go well with his catering business. It allows him to cook for the public, which he loves, and provides him an outlet to experiment with his style of regionally-inspired food.

“Not being able to run a restaurant 24/7 allows me to kind of break off and do pop-ups here and there,” said McShan.

He travels with a grill table that was built by local welders, Mac White and Mia Valentini, so he can set up a mini-kitchen everywhere he goes. He loves working outdoors, but working inside a kitchen doesn’t allow for that.

Dylan McShan

“You're kind of trapped under the fluorescent lights all the time,” said McShan. “This has been great just being able to cook outside. I could do that everyday and never get burnt out. I think the outdoor aspect is the big thing for me.”

McShan has cooked his food at Alta Marfa, El Cosmico and Cactus Liquors and most recently at the annual Valentine’s in Valentine event, but he wants to eventually branch out and offer a more formal outdoor dining experience.

Marfa Larry Co.

Matthew Bolick noticed when he bought food from Easy Wind’s two day pop-up at Cactus Liquors that the other cooks that host pop-ups were getting food as well.

“It reminded me of playing shows where all the bands go in to watch the band play, and then all of the bands that are playing that night watch the next band,” said Bolick. “Like we're all just kind of supporting each other.”

Bolick serves burgers from his backyard. The menu is simple: one burger with double meat from Far West Texas Cattle Co, double cheese, ketchup, mustard, pickles and diced onions. Bolick brought this idea he called Bad Larry Burger Club from Austin. When the pandemic hit, he was known for sending burgers down a six-foot long gutter that would slide to the customers. But now with Marfa Larry Co, people can buy his burgers from the alley behind his house. The unpredictable West Texas weather does play a role on when he opens though.

“You never really know what you're gonna get,” said Bolick. “Some days I'm like, ‘I'm gonna do it these days.’ And then the weather is like, ‘No, you're not.’ Well, we'll sort it out.”

Matthew Bolick of Marfa Larry Co with Chris King of Hot Beef

Foxy's Kitchen

Lujan, who grew up in Marfa, loves all these new pop-up restaurants.

“Most of the popups don't even tread on each other. That’s really good. Everyone seems to be figuring out their days,” said Lujan. “So it's like when we're not here, we're cooking. We're able to go and enjoy someone else's cooking, which is nice for us not to be having to cook for everyone else. That’s probably the best part about pop-ups.”

Francis and Lujan serve on Mondays and Tuesdays during the current slow season, and they do have to take a night off if there’s another pop-up at Planet Marfa.

“It would be considered the equivalent to an artist's residency, but we're just like the kitchen residents. We're here until they don't want us here,” said Francis. 

They said they have gotten really good at budgeting, and it’s important for them to do their part in offering an affordable food option to the local community. They hosted a local day and sold their fried chicken sandwich at a more affordable cost, and they offer a local discounted price for their tacos. Lujan and Francis want to eventually move on from Foxy’s Kitchen, but in the meantime, they will continue to serve the community.

“We do put a lot of love into our food, because I have always just loved feeding people,” said Francis. “It's just finding new connections.”